Most accommodation in the Bagan area is in the Nyaung U or New Bagan townships. New Bagan has the best appointed mid range options while Nyaung OO has the cheaper backpacker options for food and accommodation. Old Bagan residents were cleared by the government in the late 1990s to New Bagan. In old Bagan itself there are still some high end accommodation but it pays to check into their links with the government.
For a very good map and information check http://www.magadotravel.com
Thiri Marlar Hotel
On Thiri Marlar Street (near the Urban health centre). Thirimarler@mptmail.mm USD $25/30. A quiet well run hotel. Breakfast is served on the rooftop with views over the surrounding countryside. They have bicycle rental for those who want to cycle to the temples.
Thazin Garden Hotel
Built with tradtional Burmese style teak or colonial this more expensive hotel is situated beside it’s own garden Stupa. Poolside or garden dining this is a lovely place to relax. Room rates range from $45 low season to $80 high season (Oct – Apr) http://thazingarden.com/index.htm Friendly clean and relaxing.
Hotel @ TharabarGate
A luxury hotel at USD100 per night. For this you stay in the middle of numerous temple sites and have all the luxuries associated with a hotel in this class. With a pool and two restaurants.
USD70 although off-season bargains can be had. Situated on the banks of the Irrawady River with a restaurant swimming pool and putting greens.
This is the transport hub to other places around the country and as such currently has more restaurants and night life than New Bagan
4 Thiripyisaya Road. Good basic clean rooms a small step up from those on restaurant row, but only a 2 minute walk to Restaurant Row. Some older rooms, some newer, rents bicycles.
May Kha Lar
Cheap and chirpy USD12. On the main road so a little traffic noise, but not too bad. Friendly staff